Pilgrimage day 4-6: Øresund, Ladonia, Tisvilde Hegn

I am on a pilgrimage from Ladonia to Santiago de Compostela on a Kickbike. In the first ten days I was already in five countries*.

*in order of my border crossings: Germany, Denmark, Sweden, Ladonia, Sweden, Denmark, Christiania, Denmark, Germany.
With all due respect, Ladonia and Christiania are of course not internationally accredited countries but self-declared micronations – I still count them, as I particularly wanted to visit them and their nation status is an integral part of their self-definition. 😉

I started my journey at my parent’s house in Lichtenberg, Upper Franconia, Germany, took a train to Nürnberg and a Flixbus to Kopenhagen. (A warning here: you have to reserve an extra bike space on the bus, however, kickbikes cannot be attached there! Luckily, my kickbike is foldable, so it was taken into the luggage compartment.)

From Kopenhagen I went 20km north to visit Thor and Maia and then north towards my actual pilgrimage starting point: Ladonia. The detailed route is at the end of this post – for all the map enthusiasts, cartographers and route inspirationists.

From Birkerød I went a bit southeast to visit the deer park of Dyrehaven, because the color of the cross on my pilgrim scallop originates from there.
There is an incredible amount of deer there! It must be a few hundreds if not a thousand or more deer.
The view from Sweden to the castle of Helsingør.

On the ferry from Helsingør to Helsingborg I also met Antonella from Argentina, who is cycling from Italy somewhere north, at the moment to Sweden. She already had around 2500km done on her trip. And her bike including all luggage is 47 kilograms! Wow. My kickbike is around 30kg. So I can still lift mine up stairs. Antonella wears a wide leather hat and looks just fabulous with it.

Some lighthouse in the Øresund waters.

I spent the night at the north-most tip of the Kullaberg peninsula at the resting place.

Next morning I went southeast again to Himmelstorp. I left the heavy (and not so expensive) luggage at a shelter and hiked down to Ladonia.

I would super NOT recommend to carry an adult-size kickbike to Ladonia! It’s not just that the path is full of stones and roots, it is also really steep down and up again! You would really really need to be motivated to do this, and even then it is slightly crazy. But, well, I want to apply as Ladonian Minister of Kickbiking, so I should do something for that job. 😉

Ladonia, you great country! You are wild, weird, beautiful, an anarchic mess and absolute cool!
I bet that there was never a kickbike before standing on these rocks!
You may guess from the background scenery how steep it goes down there.
This is the Ladonian constitution. It’s build from tons of concrete and stones. See the tiny man at the right edge. It is some kind of a book, it occasionally has page numbers on the stones.
And apparently someone made a copy of it somewhere – that strikes me as being nearly as odd as the original.
I started my official pilgrimage down there in Ladonia! So I fixed my pilgrim shell to the back of my bike there first time!

And then went all the way up. For the 2km to the next cycleable way it probably took me an hour. 🙂
This is not a thing I would recommend to do, to make this again clear! You see these rocks around the kickbike? Well, this meter here was one of the little flat places that were suitable for a picture from that angle of the way up. The rest is covered in rocks like that in more unhandy steepness.

I did not want to stay a long time in Sweden, so I quickly went back to Helsingborg and took a ferry in the early evening, went along the northern coast line and chose a shelter near Hornbaek in a forest. There were also four students of the area there that took a picture of me. (One of the seldom pictures of me as I am not a big selfie-person myself.)

Peter with his super hot pants in front of a typical Danish shelter.
Outside some funny shop. I loved the arrangement of the glass balls, the fishernet and the dried Flatfisk.
Kierkegaard resided somewhere up there for a holiday after some family members had died in the past year. He gained some clever insights for his future philosophical works there.
I have zero clue of the actual content of Kierkegaard’s work, I have to admit. I only know his name from a couple of Monty Python sketches from the Flying Circus series. And they are all funnily absurd. (Well, which of their sketches isn’t absurd?)
So always when I hear Kierkegaard I have to think of the Pythons and smile.
Up north there is the nice beach of Tisvilde. This is a bit more to the west, were there are more stones. Directly by the town there is only sand – and tourists!
And just behind the beach of Tisvilde there is the magical forest of Tisvilde Hegn! The heavy winds have formed the trees into bizarre sculptures of nature. There is a certain kind of enchanted energy in this place. I spend an hour just sitting beside the trees, taking up the energy.

If you are around on Zealand you should definitely visit Tisvilde Hegn! It’s my number one recommendation!

My visited places look a bit chaotic: Kopenhagen on day 2, upwards through the middle, then along the eastern coast line, ferry from Helsingør in Denmark to Helsingborg in Sweden, along the coast to the tip of the Kullaberg peninsula, down to Ladonia a bit to the east of the Kullaberg tip, south to Helsingborg and ferry to Helsingør, along the north coast of Zealand up to Hundested in the west, down through Frederiksund towards Kopenhagen again, visiting Christiania, having a resting day south of Kopenhagen, to Christiania again and finally on day 10 leaving south along the east coast.

This post only covers the route up to Hundested, day 7 and kilometer 250. Because in Hundested there was the incredible sand sculpture exhibition that requires the entire next post!
After Christiania I was absolutely delighted with shooting panoramas, so there should be more of them in one of the next posts as well.
And I realized that I do a lot of flower photography, so there will be a post just about Flowers in Denmark. 🙂

See you soon,
Peter

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